For over 30 years now Filippo Crolla’s L’Alba D’Oro has been the discerning chippie of choice for Edinburgh’s New Town. The touch of confident class has always been there, from the 300-strong wine list (including champagne) to the well-polished stars (four of them) from the tourist board. And while it will always stand or fall by the quality of its lightly-battered fish and proper, golden brown chips, don’t discount the importance of its reputation as a chippie where you can get something a wee bit different. Once that was crocodile or shark suppers; these days it’s the more realistic, and probably more appealing, chips with hot ’n’ spicy prawns, squid or McSween’s veggie haggis. The modernised sister operation next door, claims to serve soul food; it’s the L’Alba D’Oro, however, that Edinburgh has really taken to its heart.